Mikuni Bsr 37 Manual
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Intake Manifold: 1. Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold (Twin Cam only).
Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this.
Tighten the manifold bolts. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the furnished 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers. Choke Cables: Mikuni & Harley-Davidson Route the cable with largest radius bends possible. Check the cable for free-play after installation. If there is no free-play, the engine may run rich and deliver poor performance or low fuel mileage. Harley Cable (Twin Cam Kits: 42-19, 45-4): 1. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb.
Remove the spring and plunger from the cable. Remove the spring and plunger from the Mikuni. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut (See Figure 1).
Total Kit Installation Instructions The HSR series carburetors are precise yet durable instruments; however, like any other piece of fine equipment, they require correct installation and reasonable care to assure optimum performance and long life. Extra time spent during installation will pay off in both short and long term performance and reliability. This Mikuni HSR carburetor kit is designed to be a bolt-on application, and as such, is set-up and jetted properly for most applications. However, since Harley-Davidson motors are often highly modified, alternate tuning settings may be required. The Mikuni Tuning Manual helps make jetting alterations and adjustments an easy matter.
NOTE: Carburetor Kits not designated as C.A.R.B. Exempt, are not legal for motor vehicles operated on public highways in the state of California, or in any other states and countries where similar laws apply. WARNING NOTE: NOTE: WARNING CAUTION NOTE: NOTE: TK-2 6. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni carburetor.
Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. Loosen the knurled plastic friction nut behind the choke knob and check for free-play (see Figure 2). Figure 1: Harley nut with Mikuni spring & plunger Figure 2: Choke cable adjustments Mikuni Cable (Evo Kits: 42-8, 45-2 & 45-3): 1. Remove nut, spring and plunger from the Mikuni. Install the nut, spring and plunger onto the cable. Install the assembly into the Mikuni HSR carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut.
Check for free-play. Adjust the cable as necessary. An optional choke cable mounting bracket is included in the Evo kits for custom installations. Carburetor Installation: 1. Insert the carb fully into the rubber flange, align with engine and tighten the clamp. Slip the fuel hose onto the carburetor’s fuel fitting and secure with the enclosed hose clamp.
NOTE: Some Twin Cam installations may require removal of a small amount of fin material from the cylinders to clear the float bowl. Throttle Cables The HSR carburetor uses stock 1990 and later Harley- Davidson cables. However, if your Harley is fitted with some other carburetor, you may need to purchase a set of cables. See your dealer for the correct cable set. Route the throttle cables with large radius curves and so they do not interfere with other components. Screw the cable adjusters together to make them as short as possible. Connect the “close” cable first (see Figure 3).
Install the “open” cable next (see Figure 3). Adjust the opening cable until the slide can be opened fully. Snug the adjuster lock nut. Turn the handlebar to the right and adjust the throttle free-play with the closing cable adjuster to approximately 1/8″ (see Figure 4) Incoming search terms:. Disconnect the battery ground wire from the battery.
Turn the fuel petcock to the “OFF” position. Elevate the rear of the fuel tank for better access to the carburetor area. Remove the coil, horn or other devices on the left hand side of the engine to allow free access to the intake manifold bolts. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly, including the backing plate. Disconnect any vacuum hoses and the fuel hose from the stock carburetor. Disconnect the choke cable from the frame. Remove the stock carburetor.
Evo: remove the stock manifold. Twin Cam: unplug MAP sensor, remove manifold and then remove the MAP sensor from the manifold. Installation: Intake Manifold: Twin Cam only: Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold.
Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers.
To ease installation, use liqiud detergent to lubricate the manifold seals. Choke: Evo: We recommend that you use the Mikuni choke cable that is furnished with the carburetor. However, you can use the stock Harley cable (’90-’99 models only) if you follow the Twin Cam choke cable instructions. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb.
Remove the Harley spring and plunger from the Harley choke cable. Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the Mikuni carburetor. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni.
Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.
Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual.NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock.
We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at ½ to 1 lb.
Of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores.
The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl, these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information.
You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with.5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures.
Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp. Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual.NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. Of pressure).
These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl, these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application.
Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with.5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard Incoming search terms:.
The majority of HSR42/45 installations use the Harley cable. Installation is simple when the installation instructions are followed, step by step. Those steps are:. Remove the stock Harley choke cable assembly.
Remove the spring and plunger from the stock cable. Remove the Mikuni “Starter Nut” from the HSR. Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the HSR. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger on the Harley choke cable. Install the Harley choke cable with the fitted Mikuni spring and plunger into the HSR carburetor.
DO NOT use the Mikuni Starter Nut; discard it. DO NOT use the Harley spring or plunger; discard them. Note: If you do not have installation instructions, you may download them from the www.mikuni.com website in the “manuals” section. If the Mikuni Starter Nut is fitted to the Harley cable, the choke plunger is held off its seat and the choke is open all the time. If the Harley spring and plunger are used, the plunger does not seal and the choke is open all the time.
The result, in both cases, is very poor fuel mileage (30 mpg or less). Another possible cause of poor mileage, rough idle and fouled spark plugs is incorrect cable routing. The stock Harley choke cable is very stiff and may not be fully seated in the metal elbow at the carburetor end of its run.
This condition is easily corrected. On occasion, one of these errors may have been made by someone else at another location. The unfortunate mechanic who inherits the task of correcting the rich condition, poor idle and poor fuel mileage may have no clue as to the mismatch of parts. For this reason, we include the photos and text to help you discover if your installation is correct. Incoming search terms:. THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT A) Rotate the throttle grip to the full open position, look into the throttle bore and see if the throttle valve (slide) opens completely. If the throttle valve does not open completely unscrew the adjuster on the opening cable until it does.
This adjustment should be made carefully to assure maximum carburetor performance. After adjustment tighten the adjuster jam nut. B) After adjusting the open cable, adjust throttle freeplay with the closing (idle) cable to approximately 1/8″ an indicated in the following illustration. Note It is very important to adjust the cables in the preceding described manner to ensure that the idle cable operates correctly for safety. It must close the throttle completely 2 PLEASE NOTE USE CAUTION PLEASE NOTE SAFETY WARNING pull open cable pull close cable SHOVELHEAD/IRONHEAD XL Installation Instructions Check and make sure that the throttle cables are routed properly by rechecking the throttle play as the handlebars are turned from side-to-side; the amount play should remain consistent. C) After the throttle cables have been adjusted, make sure that all the lock nuts are securely tightened. AIR CLEANER A) The air filter bracket is attached to the crankcase with 1 long bolt, and a bracket-spacer.
Removed the crankcase nut located between the tappet blocks & replace it with the enclosed bracket spacer; tighten the spacer securely. B) Remove the stud protectors from the K&N filter and place the two backing plates on the studs. Now slip the the filter onto the carburetor. C) Attach the 2 long brackets to the air filter studs with the enclosed nuts & flat washers, and to the bracket spacer with the enclosed bolt using the lock washers, and flat washers.
When the carburetor and air cleaner are properly aligned, securely tighten all of the mounting hardware including the intake manifold clamps. In some cases it may be necessary to bend the brackets slightly to arrive at the correct fit. D) Use the enclosed hose clamps to secure the fuel hose to the petcock, and the HSR carburetor. The screw clamp goes on the petcock end and the spring clamp attaches to the carburetor end.
E) Attach the chrome air filter cover with the enclosed socket head screw. CHOKE CABLE INSTALLATION A) Attach the Mikuni choke cable bracket to the original choke cable bracket on the air cleaner stud with the enclose hardware as illustrated.
This manual is intended as a guide for users of Mikuni carburetors who want to learn the adjusting method to the best performance from our products. In motorcycles, special tuning of the engine is now considereda routine practice.
The arrows that appear in the drawings in this text show the direction in which air, fuel and an air-fuel mixture flows, respectively. ¢JAir Fuel “Mixture Mounting angle fore and aft inclination of the carb should not exceed approx Function of a carburetor The function of a carburetor is to produce combustible air-fuel mixture, by breaking fuel into tiny particles (in the form of vapor) and by mixing the fuel with air in a proper ratio, and to deliver the mixture to the engine. A proper ratio (mixture ratio or air-fuel ratio) means an ideal air-fuel mixture that can burn without leaving an excess of fuel or air, Whether the proper mixture ratio is maintained or not holds the key to the efficient engine operation, 2.
Mikuni Bsr 37 Manual Treadmill
Air-fuel mixture required by the engine (Fig. 1) The ratio of a mixture of fuel and air is called the mixture ratio or the air-fuel ratio and is generally expressed by the weight proportion. Theoretically, the amount of air required for complete combustion of 1 gram of fuel under normal conditions is Incoming search terms:. 1.1 (Below) First note the position of both your high and low speed screws (some models also have a midrange screw).
Use a screwdriver to lightly set the screw, noting how many turns in it takes. NOTE: Some Sea-Doos may be seated fully (zero turns) to begin with; do not force the screws. After noting the screw positions, remove the screws. 1.2 Remove the center screw, fuel inlet and o-ring. 1.3 (Below) Remove the six screws securing the pump cover and remove it. 1.4 (Below) Remove the check valve diaphragm.
1.5 (Below) Remove the pump body. 1.6 (Below) Remove the regulator cover and clean the gasket off from it. 1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into.
To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out.
Mikuni Bsr 37 Manual Transmission
To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. This gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in. 2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough.
Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor.
Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt.
By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched Incoming search terms:.
Tuning Tips & Manual Downloads Please Note: Other than exact replacement OEM carburetors, all Mikuni Aftermarket Carburetors and Tuning Components are sold “As Is” for Off Road / Racing Use Only and are not intended or approved for use on vehicles operated on Public Roads or in Locations where applicable engine tampering and anti-pollution laws apply. Mikuni Carburetors should be replaced, repaired or tuned by the selling dealer, or a trained or qualified race mechanic. Mikuni or TD Hatrick & Co is not responsible for mechanical damage or personal injury caused by an improperly installed carburetor, operating conditions, its installation and tuning by the vehicle manufacturer, dealer, mechanic or private individual, or their inability to immediately recognize and properly correct unsuitable jetting on any supplied carburetor.
For tuning procedures we have a number of manuals available to the left. We recommend you down load the HSR tuning books for Harley Davidson. This is perhaps one of the best written book on carb tuning, just ignore the accelerator pump section if using a non pumper carb and remember that the mixture screw is an air screw where as on carbs with the screw located behind the bowl it will be a fuel screw in which case winding out is to make richer not leaner. By following the procedures in the book you will determine if jets need changing and in what direction.
Order required jets as your checks tell you. Please positively identify your jet type in the jets section, as all jet sales are final with no refunds. Remember the tuning order is – idle circuit, then main jet and then finally mid range.
If at all in doubt, see your local tuning shop. Here’s our simple outline for basic tuning to get you started. 1) Idle Circuit: With your idle circuit, start at 1 1/2 to 2 turns out on the mixture screw and then wind your idle screw back to give a very slow idle whilst at operating engine temp with the bike upright.
Follow this with 1/2 turn checks winding in one direction every 10 seconds till the engine starts to stumble, at this point then wind back in the opposite direction counting your half turns till it stumbles again. Wind back ½ the number of counted turns to the centre point.
Then count the turns from this point to bottoming out, if you take less than 3 and more than 1 complete turns to achieve bottom, the jet is correct and you simply wind back to the centre point. If the jet is wrong, either having no stumble in one direction or the centre point being out of the 1-3 range this will let you know that a jet change is required and weather you need to order richer or leaner jets. Nothing else other than the pilot jet has an effect at idle. Remember if you don’t wait 10 seconds for the engine to catch up every half turn at a very slow idle this tuning process will not work. Some engines will actually have two size jets that may fall within the 1-3 spec in which case see which feels better when riding, generally the richer one.
2) Main Jet Circuit: At wide open throttle only the main jet is working so these are also very easy to tune with a few jets and a bit of spare time. The performance changes can be detected at wide open throttle in low gears- we do not recommend the operation of motorcycles over the speed limit.
Change and test with the next size jet both up or down to determine weather an improvement can be obtained and in what direction. If you notice an improvement in one direction, keep changing to the next jet size in that direction till the improvement stops and she drops off the perch, then go back one. Don’t give up half way through this process thinking you’ve got it right before reaching the limit, otherwise you may will be robbing yourself of a surprising amount of horse power!
Do a plug check to be sure you’re not too lean when finished, job done. We don’t do returns on jets so maybe buy one bigger and one smaller to determine which way you need to go before then buying a selection in the correct direction (richer of leaner). Never drill jets and do remember that most aftermarket jets do not flow correctly. 3) Mid-Range Mark the throttle twist grip and housing with a white out pen to identify when your slide is at ¼, ½, and ¾ opening, this will help you identify any particular problem areas and also keep you operating in the desired testing areas.
Generally if you have the right profile needle for your engine, a difference in performance and response can be detected by raising and lowering the needle. If improvements appear in one direction of adjustment but perfection is not achieved whilst having reached the end clip on the needle, then you will need to install a richer or leaner needle if available or else a corresponding needle jet. Once having made a change its back to the middle clip position and start all over again. An inability to tune out a problem in the mid range will indicate that the needle profile is not matched to your engine or a slide change may be required. Never change main or pilot jets to try and correct a mid-range problem.