Aug 30, 2018 - Stromberg 175 CD-2 SE. Tuning Manual - This. Stromberg ' CD. 175 CD and 175 CD-I. Thereby weakening the. Sep 20, 2009  Stromberg 175 cd-2 manual I'm looking for manual on the Stromberg 175 cd-2 for tuning and repair, there are tons of books for carbs but non on the Stromberg. Bid Live on Lot 20 in the Cars, Motorcycles and Automobilia Auction from Dee, Atkinson & Harrison.

• Stromberg 175 Cd2
• Stromberg Cd 175 Carburetor

Carbureted engines have incorporated many pollutant control devices, such as a temperature-regulated fuel jet, an air/fuel mixture preheating chamber, and a throttle bypass or over-rev valve. Measures have also been taken to improve the operation and driveability of emission controlled engines such as a cold start device, a constant intake air temperature device and a hot start valve. The temperature-regulated fuel mixture is accomplished differently on the Zenith-Stromberg carburetor than on the SU carburetor. On the Zenith-Stromberg carburetor, a temperature sensitive bimetal spring (in the temperature compensator) actuates an air valve that varies the air supplied the venturi area, maintaining a constant air/fuel ratio. This ratio is maintained despite changing fuel temperature. Within the SU carburetor, a temperature sensitive bimetal spring raises or lowers an adjustable jet to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio at changing fuel temperatures. The air/fuel mixture preheating chamber used on pre-1972 models is located between the primary throttles in the carburetors and the secondary throttles in the intake manifold.

My friend has a 1978 MGB equipped with the Zenith-Stromberg 175-cd2 SU carb. As of this moment it runs rough, loses power when a load is placed on the engine, stalls on occasion, and idles rough. The spark plugs are covered with black soot and the interior tail pipe is covered in black soot. This tells me that the car is running with too rich of a mixture, well at least from past automotive repair experience anyway. I have attempted to locate a tech manual to help me troubleshoot the carb so I could adjust (?) it; alas no luck.

I am familiar with SU carbs as I owned a Datsun 240Z and worked on the Hitachi SU carbs, but this Zenith carb is unfamiliar territory. For one thing, I've noticed it doesn't have the moving piston, but has a diaphram instead; thus much of the information I have found has to do with the carb that has the moveable piston. Has anyone out there had experience troubleshooting, tuning up, rebuilding this carb?Can it be adjusted to a leaner fuel mixture? Thanks for any input.Bruce Price. These are zs not su carbs. Don't know where you're looking but these do have a piston.

Stromberg 175 Cd2

Haynes manual isbn 1 85010 019 5 is a good reference or maybe on ebay more than likely the auto choke. B lover, Beer Geek Shadetree mechanic and backyard brewer Mick Lost Angeles CA '67B BRGdk '70B BRGdk '71B Inca Yellow '76B Citron Yellow 15 gallon homebrewery 'a gentleman does not motor about after dark' Joseph Lucas, 1923 'Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.' Lewis That which does not destroy me.

Just leaves me shakin' my head. Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche and Me. This should help: Sounds like it needs a slight rebuild, the rubber diaphragm should be replaced as well as the o-ring in the damper oil reservoir. BTW the oil reservoir is also where one can adjust the idle mixture (similar to the SU) with the proper tool. Oh and what Mick said! Oh forgot about this article on the water choke adjustment: Eric Triplett 'Electronic ignition, the greatest thing that ever happened to carburetors.'

1968 High Compression Engine, Dual SU HIF-4 Conversion, Peco Header and Exhaust, Pertronix LU-147, MSD Blaster 2 Coil. Advanced Distributors Re-Cruve 45DM Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2007-07-11 05:43 PM by fleshy1. Quote: I know we have to break down and buy a manual. Thanks, Bruce yes better that and before you break down and require roadside assistance.

B lover, Beer Geek Shadetree mechanic and backyard brewer Mick Lost Angeles CA '67B BRGdk '70B BRGdk '71B Inca Yellow '76B Citron Yellow 15 gallon homebrewery 'a gentleman does not motor about after dark' Joseph Lucas, 1923 'Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies.

The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.' Lewis That which does not destroy me. Just leaves me shakin' my head.

Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche and Me. Quote: Eric; The carb has been rebuilt (new diaphram, autochoke cleaned and recallibrated, carb cleaned). Where is the oil reservoir located?

For lack of better term, the dipstick at the top of the carb housing is attached to the diaphram (I think) as it doesn't seem to come all of the way out. Not sure where to put oil. I know we have to break down and buy a manual. Thanks, Bruce It should in fact come out because that is where the oil should go, try some 20-50.

Damper rod (dipstick) out: Oil goes here: Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2007-07-11 07:25 PM by fleshy1. There is no fill mark and according to John Twist (University Motors) you can't overfill the dashpot. The oil in there will help with the idle and acceleration problems. It basically smooths out the operation of the piston in the carb which makes for better acceleration and smoother idle. It probably won't correct the rich running problem.

I would suggest you check out the links I posted above on servicing the auto-choke. Eric Triplett 'Electronic ignition, the greatest thing that ever happened to carburetors.' 1968 High Compression Engine, Dual SU HIF-4 Conversion, Peco Header and Exhaust, Pertronix LU-147, MSD Blaster 2 Coil. Advanced Distributors Re-Cruve 45DM. Dashpot oil slows the rise of the piston on accelleration giving a richer mixture while speed is increased. No oil aloows the piston to rise quicker making the mixture leaner on acceleration.

Piston should reach the same height with or without oil, just how fast it reacts is affected by the oi or lack thereofl. B lover, Beer Geek Shadetree mechanic and backyard brewer Mick Lost Angeles CA '67B BRGdk '70B BRGdk '71B Inca Yellow '76B Citron Yellow 15 gallon homebrewery 'a gentleman does not motor about after dark' Joseph Lucas, 1923 'Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies.

The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.' Lewis That which does not destroy me. Just leaves me shakin' my head. Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche and Me. Eric; Well, the car runs much better. I found two stripped screws that held the mass cover to the choke body.

I drilled and tapped those holes, got the appropriate sized screws, insterted them and snugged them down. The idle rpms suddenly rose when the car was started, it idled much smoother. However, taking it out on a test drive it still lugs a little bit when the engine is under a load and acceleration is sluggish, but much better than before the 'repair'. Your suggestions were very helpful and much appreciated.thanks. I had a suggestion about checking the ignition and I'm going that route to see what happens (the car already has new plugs and new plug wires). Incidently, I did pull out the damper and it did come out.I was afraid to pull too hard as to wreck something.I added oil (20-50 as you recommended) and all is well. Thanks for that too.

Bruce, if it has the original distributor for the late model cars, it may only have mechanical advance, and the mechanism may be sticking. You may want to lubricate it good, or better yet, send it to Jeff Shlemmer at Advanced Distributors and have him add vacuum advance to it. I have a new carb that runs really well, but the down side is I can tell just how bad my original distributor is now!

Stromberg Cd 175 Carburetor

I'm talking to Jeff about a replacement, if he can help me figure out how to hook up the vacuum line. 2016 street bob service manual. John English 1976 MGB HIF44 carb on late manifold, Schlemmerized 45D w/Pertronix, Limey's relay kit, solid state voltage stabilizer.