1986 Evinrude 140 Manual
Oct 16, 2007 - The manual primer operates as both a fuel injector and an enriching device. The fuel injector operates w/o air being drawn through the motor.
I just found out that my upper mounts are shot. My mechanic told me that it requires removing the powerhead to access the top mount. I have never removed a powerhead before but i'm willing to try!!! I was quoted anywhere from 1500-2000 dollars.holy cow! Anyway, I'm very mechanically inclined but would like to hear from anyone who has done this and if its extremely hard, time consuming etc. I'm willing to learn if its not overly complicated and it it saves me some money. Is it just some bolts around the base that connect to the power head to the midsection?
Should I get a gasket for that? Any help would be appreciated.the fishing is getting hot up here and I dont want to miss the season. Re: 1986 Evinrude 140HP V4- powerhead removal??
When I did my removal, I removed the foot to insure I didnt damage the splines on the drive shaft that goes up into the crank. Some power heads are really stuck on there so dropping the lower unit first which is very easy to do, removes one more obstacle from the equation. Just make sure you disconnect the transmission rod linkage before you tug and pull on the foot. Once thats out of the way, disconnect the wire harness plug (Big orange thing), the fuel line, the pos and neg cables from the battery 1st, and then on the motor. Disconnect the 2 control linkage cables from the mounts on the starboard side of the power head. I think thats just about it unless ya got extra wiring for heat sensors or other accessories.
Once all the wires, fuel lines and linkages are clear, then yes, you should find I think 2 bolts on the port side and 2 bolts on the starboard side going up into the bottom of the power head. There might be one or 2 in the rear aswell and may have to remove some of the cowlings to see them. As far as a gasket, there was 2 on mine.
A big one that encompassed the entire power head and one small one that went to the exhaust. I would replace them just because they are already exposed so why not, but look to see if your particular model has 1 or 2 or 3 at and use the illustration as a reference. Then support iboats and these free forums by purchasing them here! I am not a seasoned pro like most on here, but I did remove mine with ease and I hope this helps.
Re: 1986 Evinrude 140HP V4- powerhead removal?? One more thing you need to be prepared for. Some power heads like I said earlier are really stuck onto the exhaust housing (mid-section). I ended up using my neighbors cherry picker (for car engine removal) to actually be able to seperate the power head from the mid section. The seloc manual said sometimes, heating with a torch is necessary.
Be patient when trying to seperate the 2 and be darn sure you have all the bolts out. I just remembered my v-6 had 2 bolts under the carbs too. Investing in a seloc manual for less than 30 bux will really be helpfull if you plan on doing your own maintanence. Re: 1986 Evinrude 140HP V4- powerhead removal?? Thanks for the input trimmers.
Just a couple more qesions. The model I have is the E140TXCDC, it was rebuilt in 2003, so i am looking at about 7 years.
With how clean this engine is I hope to have no problems with super stuck parts.crossing fingers now!! To remove the lower end is a few bolts but you mentioned the transmission rod linkage? I thought the lower unit had the drive shaft attached and it ran up the mid section to the base of the powerhead. Is that not correct? How do I know if the carbs ned to be removed? Seadoo gsx manuals.
1986 Evinrude 140 Hp Vro Manual Pdf Free
Or do I need to? Is it due to the size of the bolts? I envisioned removing the linkages, electricity, throttle, shift.and once all was clear, just a some bolts. Maybe I am over simplifying this.visually its what I think it should go like. Re: 1986 Evinrude 140HP V4- powerhead removal?? You deinetely need to get a manual.
There is a shift rod going down the very front of the motor, from under the carbs all the way down to the lower unit, and there is a drive shaft. There is also a water tube that connects to the impeller housing. I am sorry, I thought you had more experience with the workings of a outboard. I should of suggested a manual first. It is a very simple ask and since the motor is only sitting on 7 years of possible yuck, it should seperate fairly easily, but without knowing what all is in involved, you could cost yourself alot of money. Read the task.
It will do you a huge favor. Re: 1986 Evinrude 140HP V4- powerhead removal??
I appreciate the help guys. I used to have a 40hp before I moved to an I/O now i am back to an outboard. I do have experience on a lot of the engine work but I have only taken on tasks that I knew enough about. I have not pulled the lower unit by myself.and certainly never did a power head. Out of neccesity I am thinking about this task.since I do not have 2K to spend on getting a new top mount. Again, any issues you may have encountered, tricks to make it go smoother, basic points in doing this type of thing.etc. Is all i am after.
Id rather learn from your mistakes than make them myself.(can't remember who said that) it sounds like a manual is first.then some sweat and aggrivation, followed by beer. Re: 1986 Evinrude 140HP V4- powerhead removal?? UPDATE: Got this all done and back together!! I couldnt have done it without this forum. I must say it wasn't hard to do but very time consuming and you really need to stage it out so you can keep track of everything. All in all it went well.
I got it all together and after hooking up the throttle and shift I decided to start it up and put it through the motions. For some reason I couldnt get it to start. After a few attempts i noticed my batteries starting to get low and she wasnt crankin as fast so I decided to let them charge today and try again later.
I primed the bulb and have gas at the top but its really hard (the prime bulb) and even with cranking its still pretty hard. What is that due to? Isnt the gas suppossed to fill the bowls and pulling fuel into the engine? I know it has to crank pretty hard to suction the feul through and I belive 300rpm is what is required. Do you think its the batteries being low that prevented enough vaccum to pull the fuel up and fire? Scratching my head at the moment because I just got it all together in exactly the prder i took everything off. Any help would be great!